DEUTSCHLAND 2008 (part 7): Buchenwald

The only somber and absolutely sobering day of the trip was when we spent an afternoon roaming the ruins of Buchenwald, the former Nazi concentration camp located just outside the city of Weimar. Buchenwald was one of the largest camps of its kind on German soil and SS records indicate that 33,462 people perished within its confines. More recent estimations push that number closer to 56,545 but regardless of statistics, this place is massive and I think taking these photos somehow helped me navigate the architecture of institutionalized mass murder still evident at every step. It was a haunted place and a harrowing afternoon...

"To Each His Own"

"My honor remains faithful!"

Corpse cart.

This field of wild flowers is where the former SS quarters stood before being bombed toward the close of World War II

SS guard trench

Goethe's Oak.

DEUTSCHLAND 2008 (part 6): Bangover!

I smiled so much over the course of my 18 day trek across Germany that my jaw still hurts. Or is that from landing face-down in my tent? One thing I learned from my initial experience with European metal festivals is that they encompass the gamut of all things METAL, from the sublimely powerful and inspired to the absolute depths of alcohol abuse and lame commercialism. Overall, the festivals I attended were remarkably well organized and even the overwhelming scope and scale of Wacken felt easy to navigate thanks to the thoughtful staff and security. I didn't see a single fight the entire time (not including a small scuffle during Iron Maiden that was quickly resolved by surrounding fans) nor did I see much evidence of the "fascists" whom I was warned might make ugly appearances. I also never felt watched or herded by overzealous "security forces". Most surprising of all was the huge presence of women who attend these fests! That may seem like a strange observation, but in America heavy metal is still largely male-dominated and the few women I see at shows are generally with their boyfriends or struggling to have fun amidst all the dudes. Apparently theft is a problem at some European festivals (based on all the "pickpockets in the pit" warnings) and I hear it was a real problem at Brutal Assault this past weekend. Still, I was reminded many times that festivals of this scale would be a disaster in the U.S. since we clearly don't share the comraderie and sense of responsibility to pull off a multi-day outdoor metal fest without killing each other and burning the place to the ground. I won't get on a soapbox here but...ahem...America ain't exactly the "Land of the Free", despite what you may have been told.

KAMPFAR

VREID

KOLDBRANN

BOLT THROWER

"In Battle There Is No Law!"

Maike, one of our gracious Dresden hosts, was also unimpressed by my beer-drinking antics. She drank us under the table (or under the corn fields as it were)...

Good Morning!

After 3 more days of headbanging we dropped into our tents (those of us who slept at all) and awoke just a few hours later with our boots still on to board the first shuttle bus back to Bad Berka. From there we jumped on an early morning train bound for Frankfurt and then on across Germany back to Amsterdam. It was a painful farewell in every way imaginable. Thanks again to all the friends (old & new) I met along the way! Some of you appear in this "photo diary" but there were many others who kept me from starving on the road (not to mention drunk) and you all made my first visit overseas very memorable! I'll see you all again soon. Hail to Germany! Prost!

DEUTSCHLAND 2008 (part 5): Party San!

From Dresden we drove a few hours north to the small town of Bad Berka and continued on to the remote pastures that are descended upon once a year by the nearly 10,000 metalheads who attend Party San Open Air Festival! Much smaller and more intimate than Wacken, Party San also only has one stage which makes it much easier to see all the bands. This year's line-up included the mighty BOLT THROWER, so with our arsenal of vodka at the ready we made our way into hell...

DISMEMBER

Alice of Dresden's metal radio broadcast Invisible Orange probably doesn't want my arm around her...

UNANIMATED

TYRANT (Sweden)

GENERAL SURGERY

The lovely Conny Cobra, Daniel Ekeroth (author of the brilliant tome 'Swedish Death Metal') & various drunk Swedes!

IMPALED NAZARENE

The Impaled Nazarene set was everything I hoped it might be and they also delivered the most memorable banter of the day. A pink beach ball kept landing on the stage from the audience and the singer kicked it back out a few times until finally he said something to the effect of, "What the fuck is up with the pink ball?? This is a heavy metal concert, not a beach party! Somebody give me a fucking knife!" Priceless.